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Start Keeping Bees


Bee Hives & Things you need

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Honeybees are very interesting social insects. It is the only insect that produces food for man. The honeybee has been in the news a lot in the last couple of years. Many are worried about the honeybee and rightly so. They are so important for pollination of fruits and vegatables. Many want to try their hand at beekeeping to help the honeybee and the environment. With the economy like it is, many see raising honeybees and making honey as a wholesome hobby and a way to make a little extra money. But where do you start?  This page will show you what you need to start.  Also, it will show you some things what you may want to have to make things easier, but don't really need.  Cost... Depending on how you order the hive a nuc with good used equiment or a nuc with new equipment has different prices.  For the basic hive one story seen below on the left you have inside a deep, frames inside, bees inside, bottom board, Inner cover, and a telescoping lid.  The price can be from $300.00 to about $400.00.  Everything has to be figured out step by step as honeybees are super valuable and we don't have enough of them today.  This price scale is for 2011 as persons are still coming for honeybees even next week past today October 16, 2011. 

You need to call way in advance of the need as other persons are in line right now for honeybees.  I have a fellow coming to Forest, OH from PA soon.

For a hive that is several months old with two deeps only and the rest of the equipment for a full size hive the price today October 16, 2011 can be nearly $400.00. and more depending on the queen and how large the brood nest has become.  

I have some beekeepers right now that are waiting for me to call them to pick up their bee equipment and hives.  If you are interested from today onward to deep fall give us a call and we can tell you what is still left or what is still brewing. 


Parts of a Hive Explained in Detail

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You need a bottom board for the box to sit on. You need a hive body (box) filled with frames and foundation for the bees to live on. You need an inner cover on top of the box that creates a dead air space for insulation from heat and cold. You need a lid, sometimes called a hive cover or telescoping cover that fits over the sides of the box and a top super (box) to extend the brood or for nectar to be stored and you need bees.  The picture to your left an assembly line of new hives started in the spring.  Some hives start on drawn comb created at a different time and others start on only foundation.  If honeybees start on foundation in the early spring it is best to feed them a lot of sweetner like regular table sugar mixed 50/50 in hot tap water tell it goes clear.  Let that mixed sugar cool before feeding it too the honeybees!


In The Box

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This is what it looks like in the box. Bees cover the frames making them ready for the queen to lay eggs in the cells. If you want to make honey you need several of these boxes on top of each other for room for the bees to expand into and to put pollen and nectar to be developed into honey soon.  The bees 'pullout' the wax on the frames to create the hexagon shape of the the honey comb.  In those 'cells', the queen can lay eggs to make a giant army of bees to make lots of honey. The cells are also where the bees store the honey they make.  Many of the beekeepers that I talk to in late summer did not add more then # 1 or # 2 boxes for bees to make honey inside them.   Many are puzzled as to why they only got 30 to 60 lbs. of honey.   If I get with a beekeeper I tell them when you add boxes add # 3 to  # 4 not # 1 or # 2.   

In 2000 I was told when I started using the Parsons' Gold Solution add many boxes at the start.  I started in each yard with   # 4 medium boxes per colony from the get go.  I was shocked to find in one and a half weeks to have nearly 160 lbs. of honey on each hive and nearly all capped and all cured.


Working The Bees

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Beekeepers need to open the hive periodically to check the bees. You need to see if the queen is still there. If she is laying eggs. If new bees are hatching and if there is honey. You need to look to see if things are getting crowded in there and if so, it's time to put on another box. Sometimes new beekeepers who don't understand the concept of the making honey or making more bees and they never put on another box. There is no where for the bees to store honey or the queen to lay more eggs if the room does not increase so the hive just stands still after a while and the hive then swarms to make more room and to cool the hive some.  If there is not room for the hive to expand there will be no honey for you and no honey for the bees to winter on when the cold comes in deep fall to winter.


A Bee Suit

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This is a hat/veil combo with zippered jacket. This jacket fits tight around the body at the belt line to keep bees from getting to you.  I think this is all that is necessary for a hobby beekeeper or experenced beekeeper that is just doing everyday hive work . A full beesuit will give the most protection, though.

We have used this jacket lots and got along fine. You should wear long pants like jeans so the bees can't get to your legs. Tape your pant legs clear shut and even over the tops of your shoes so the bees can't sting through your socks. Occaisionally they sting through clothes, but it is usually 1/2 to 1/4 sting and so doesn't amount to much. Cost..... Hooded Cotten/Poly Jacket Combo $64.00 Hat Veil Cotten/Poly Jacket Combo $64.00.

At present I do not handle the Hooded one above as I really like the Hat Veil Jacket Combo the best.   I have both types and wear both from time to time.  The Hat Veil Jacket Combo is much cooler to work in late spring and summer.   I do still wear the other one once in a while like in cooler weather.   My choice is the Hat Veil Jacket Combo and this is what I use nearly every day when in the bees.  I buy genes that are 1 inch longer then what I should wear and this covers my boots well.   I stopped taping my pant legs to my boots right at 7 years ago and so far the number of bees that climb up at my boot line is nearly nothing.   I have to really be in the bees way after dark to get stung anywhere.


Gloves

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These are ventilated leather gloves. They are elbow length, light and heavy weight with an elastic band at the top to provide protection. Available in different sizes.  Cost - Gloves Leather Vented  $23.00 each for sizes Small, Med., Lg. and XLg.   Today October 16, 2011 I have many pairs of gloves ready for anyone that calls me and asks for me to ship them what ever they want for this type of equipment.  If you are in driving distance from us call ahead of time to make sure we are here to receive you.  Many beekeepers plan ahead and get such items for gifts and to have extra around for family and friends that come and want to see a bee hive from inside the hive.


Smoker

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This is a smoker. The smoker is a metal container with air bellows attached. A smoldering fire is built in the metal chamber and the bellows are used to blow the smoke produced out through a nozzle at the top of the smoker. When lightly puffed into a colony of honey bees the smoke causes a temporary confusion and disorganization within the colony. The honey bee's group defensive behavior is disrupted. This allows the beekeeper to move calmly and to confortably inspect the interior of his colonies. Cost.. Stainless Steel Smoker w/ Shield $43.00 to $46.00 each.  I have had less expensive smokers with a shield in stock but any smoker is in such high demand most companies run out way too fast.  I have on hand right now the most expensive smoker.   A smoker that is well made can last many, many years with good care!

At this time I do not supply the smoker without the shield.  Most supply companies run out of this quickly and it is nearly impossible to get them and continue to stock it.  My choice as a beginner or advanced beekeeper is a smoker with a shield for safety from burns.    However, a smoker without a shield often is much less money and that counts too for a person that only has one hive and does not go into that one hive much.   I took the price off this smoker since I was not able to locate even one this season.   Honeybees are in such demand big supply places often can't even keep some stock in place due to the world market.   Most of the beekeeping supplies go over seas leaving us with what is left.

My advice to you wanting to get into honeybees today order early and early means way before January of each year!


Hive Tool

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The hive tool. The honey bees collect a miscellaneous product called propolis from tree gums, saps and resins-anything sticky. This they use to seal cracks and crevices within the hive. because of the sticky nature of this product a special tool is used for those times when a little leverage is necessary to remove frames, supers, etc. from the hive. Cost... Hive Tool Painted $8.00.


Beekeeping Classes

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Beekeeping Classes 101, 201 and 301 Plus Beekeeping Made Easy. This CD is not necessary to have bees, but it is valuable source of information that can help you when you have questions and there is no one to ask. It answers hundreds of questions you might have. For example: Should I buy package bees or nucs? How do I hive package bees? Where should I place my hive? When do I need to requeen? How to start a business with bees. Advice for professional beekeepers. It's easy to use and at your fingertips any time you need advice. Cost... $20.00


Parsons' Gold Solution

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Parsons' Gold Solution is a product designed to keep your honey bees healthy. It contains all natural ingredients so it will not harm the bees or get in the honey or wax. It was developed in 1991 as a solution to a vast majority of beehive problems, and it was formulated from herbal extracts which bees naurally come into contact with in the wild. It contains no pesticides. It helps bees be as healthy as they can be and helps them defend themselves from mites. This isn't something you have to have to keep bees, but it is highly recommended. Cost... starting at $11.00 for the 33 treatment syringe up to $250.00 for 2,500 treatments. See Parsons' Gold Solution page.


Extra Equipment

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Optional. If you want to make honey for yourself or to share with others, you will need extra equipment. Bee boxes have other names. The largest is called a deep box. A deep box, sometimes called a super if you use it to make honey, can weigh 70-80 lbs. if the bees fill it up. Next size is a medium, also called an 'Illinois' and can hold 40 lbs. of honey. A shallow is the smallest box and can weigh 30 lbs. when full. If you get extra boxes, you'll need the frames of beeswax to go inside them. Bees will use any size box you put on, but generally, deep boxes are for brood, eggs, larvae and baby bees and are on the bottom where the queen likes to live. Shallows are often for comb honey. But beekeepers put on the size that is practical for them. If you are a strong healthy young guy, deeps are no problem. If you are a woman, mediums and shallows may be easier to handle. You can get equipment new or sometimes you can find used. Cost.... See New and Used Equipment pages.

In this picture I was trying to take hives of honeybees to CA and this set up helped me due to the fact that the bottom boards was attached to a deep for the start of a brood area.   All that I needed was a medium box on top with some honey and brood for each hive to go to CA.   When the load arrived in CA in a staging area hives are fed then moved to an orchard ready for the bloom to open soon after the new year begins. 

What you do not see in this picture is another row of light green boxes on bottom boards stacked high to the right as big as the ones on the left.  This picture was taken in the late summer of 2005.  We were ready to produce that August 500 colonies.   California was paying at a high of $165.00 for the use of a colony for about a month that next winter in 2006.


Extracting Honey

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Optional. Once the bees make the honey, the next thing is 'how do you get it out of the frame?'. You can cut the beeswax comb out of the frame and put it in a tub and let the honey run out. You can squeeze it out with you hands. A very messy way. (You ruin the combs if you do it this way, and that isn't good.) You can get an extractor like shown in the picture. You cut the wax cappings off the comb with a knife, put the frame in the extractor and using the handle, you spin the honey out, The one in the picture does two like frames at a time. The honey runs out of the extractor into your container when you open the gate at the bottom.  You can spend up to thousands on extractors, depending on whether you want stainless steel, electric crank and how many frames you want it to spin at a time. This extractor Costs - $220.95 + S/H and sometimes taxes are added.   Contact us for information related to getting this extractor to you.   This still is a very popular extractor and last year it was sold out nationwide over 4 times.   Today I am told I can again get this small extractor!  I have one too as I do talks around the county and this small extractor is a very good tool to explain how honey is extracted and for a low end price for a machine.  It is light weight and is small enough for a child to be able to see it up close and work it too.

In 2010 I had two of these extractors the only two in the county I was told and one I shipped to CA and the other went to a beekeeper in Columbus, Ohio.

Today October 16, 2011 many beekeepers are just about done extracting honey and others are not done.  I have not yet started extracting honey but will begin I hope this month sometime.  I was just last week in about 58 colonies and I think I have just over a ton of that sweet sticky golden honey.  In this part of Ohio this year many of our flowering crops were planted late due to many days of constant rain so our nectar producing plants came on late.  This next topic has been a problem for years as that related to honey production.  The numbers of persons in line to help you extract are many until the honey is ready to extract.   Once you have a honey room full of honey the numbers that want to help then falls off quickly!

Golden Rod is all but done and White and Purple Aster is still in bloom.  We here in Ohio have a flowering plant that has been in bloom for months called Smart Weed and it will continue tell bloom tell frost. 

In years past I often would start extracting honey late in July and would still be extracting honey in December.   In 2006 I started iextracting in late August and was still extracting honey in January 2007.   Most small beekeepers just do not comprehend how hard it is to get help that will stay the course and keep on keeping on with you!  Several seasons were due to our honey haul was from 14,000 lbs. to 16,500 lbs. and try that haul on for size getting help to be there for you hour after hour day after day and week after week at nearly 100 degrees.  Honey does not flow well at 72 to 75 degrees.

In 2008 to 2009 I had to have my honey custom extracted due to a move.   In 2010 my system was up and running but due to an uncapper going down I had to extract without a good automatic uncapper of frames of honey.  Now in 2011 we had too much rain and late nectar storage but all is about fixed except my spinner today now in October still needs checked out.   

People are waiting for our honey haul to be processed now and I am major frustrated but I am working as fast as one person can work to get this system up and running.  If I do get it done by this month it will be nearly the first time since 2008 that we are doing it without help.   So far I have never seen a time when someone did not want honey in the bulk amount.  Many beekeepers are right now sold out and by January the demand for honey will be off the charts!

I remember well back in 2000 to 2003 buyers coming out of Chicago to me would come for a half ton and a ton.  That size orders was nothing as in size.